ikat technique meaning

In weft ikat it is the weaving or weft yarn that carries the dyed patterns. Most weavers were killed and the whole art of Cambodian ikat was in danger of disappearing. The most coveted double ikat woven fabrics come from Guatemala, India, Japan and Indonesia. Guatemalan ikat is well-noted for its beautiful "blurs.". Ikat Art. If you're not sure what I mean by warp and weft, have a quick read of my previous article, understanding weaving. Ikat fabric is a dyeing technique used to create a distinct style of textile patterns. The bundles may be covered with wax, as in batik. The weaver then ties these yarns to match the planned pattern. All Rights reserved. It is traditionally manufactured in the Odisha village of ‘Bomkai’ (the eastern Indian state) and that is why the brand is popularly known as ‘Bomkai’ sarees. Ikat is a type of textile produced in modern-day Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. A dying technique used to pattern textiles using resist dyeing on the yarns before dyeing and weaving the fabric. What does ikat mean? of Asia, in which a pattern is created from tie-dyed thread. You are bound to love them all! Weavers must adjust the warp repeatedly to maintain pattern alignment. Outside Tenganan, geringsing are treasured as they are purported to have magical powers. The movement of the weft yarns in the weaving process means precisely delineated patterns are more difficult to weave. In ikat the resist is formed by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in … The very term ikat is derived from the Indonesian word ‘mengikat’, meaning “to tie” – a reference to the distinctive technique used to create the weaves. The ties on the yarn are untied, and the yarns are strung on the loom. Yarkant-atlas has more diverse styles; during Yarkant Khanate (16th century), there ten different styles of Yarkant-atlas. The term “ikat” refers to the dyeing technique used to create the designs on the fabric. It has been practised for centuries in many parts of the world, but reached its most expressive form in the Indonesian archipelago, where it is However, the blurriness that is so characteristic of ikat is often prized by textile collectors. A Latin American innovation which may also be employed elsewhere is to employ a round stick around which warp threads are wrapped in groups, thus allowing more precise control of the desired design. The Pedan is a fabric traditionally woven as a wall hanging for religious ceremonies. Ikat fabric is a dyeing technique used to create a distinct style of textile patterns. India, Japan, Indonesia and many other Southeast Asian nations including Cambodia, Myanmar, Philippines and Thailand have weaving cultures with long histories of ikat production. ikat in American English. A characteristic of ikat textiles is an apparent “blurriness” to the design. The Pochampally Sari and Puttapaka saris are native to India, and feature exquisite double ikat motifs on silk. Patterns become transformed by the weaving process into irregular and erratic designs. The historical record indicates that there were 27 types of atlas during Qing occupation. Kikuo Morimoto is a prominent pioneer in re-introducing ikat to Cambodia. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. [10] However, it probably developed in several different locations independently, since ikat was known to be produced in several pre-Columbian Central and South American cultures. If you have ever used one, you will know how unique they are. [citation needed]. The patterns are created by means of a resist dyeing process on either the warp or weft twine, or on both. The Craft Atlas is a map to the curious and the common. Ikat definition, a method of printing woven fabric by tie-dyeing the warp yarns (warp ikat ), the weft yarns (weft ikat ), or both (double ikat ) before weaving. Kebaya usually worn with a sarong or batik "kain panjang", or other traditional woven garment such as ikat, songket with a colorful motif. The blurriness is a result of the extreme difficulty the weaver has lining up the dyed yarns so that the pattern comes out perfectly in the finished cloth. Ikat was brought to Europe at almost the same time by Dutch traders from South East Asia as the Spanish from South America and explorers from the Silk Road. Patterns can be created in the vertical, horizontal or diagonal. Can you explain the difference between single ikat and double ikat patola? Double Ikat is created by resist-dyeing both the warp and weft prior to weaving. In warp and double ikat, the pattern emerges on the loom at this stage. Thus, the name of the finished ikat woven fabric originates from the tali (threads, ropes) being ikat (tied, bound, knotted) before they are being put in celupan (dyed by way of dipping), then berjalin (woven, intertwined) resulting in a berjalin ikat- reduced to ikat. Meaning ‘Bomkai’ is a customary sari which is created by making use of the 'Ikat' dyeing technique. Vinita Passary's concept clothing label Translate is centred around traditional ikat motifs which she uses to create trendy summer outfits and interior products. Telia Rumal made in Andhra, Pasapalli from Odisha and Puttapaka from Telangana are other Indian Ikats. It has an uneven twill weave, meaning the weft threads are more visible on the front side of the fabric. The Cambodian ikat is a weft ikat woven of silk on a multi-shaft loom with an uneven twill weave, which results in the weft threads showing more prominently on the front of the fabric than the back. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. This form of textile production is also popular in Central and South American countries like Argentina, Bolivia and Mexico. Fashion trends may come and go, but ikat fabrics have always stood the test of time. Nevertheless, some parts of Asia demonstrates strong ikat traditions which suggest its possible origin; they are Maritime Southeast Asia, Indian subcontinent and Central Asia. The making of the pattern consists in the precise tying and dying of the threads before weaving. The amount of labour and skill required also make it the most expensive, and many poor quality cloths flood the tourist markets. The blurriness can be reduced by using finer yarns or by the skill of the craftsperson. In Indonesia double ikat is only woven in the Bali Aga village of Tenganan. Originally considered a court-based sacred fabric in Bali, it is now Indonesia's most commercialised resist-dyed fabric. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. my previous article, understanding weaving. Routledge & Kegan Paul. Double ikat South American and Indonesian ikat are known for a high degree of warp alignment. The double ikat made in Patan, Gujarat in India is the most complicated. The desired pattern is first drawn on the warp and weft yarns by hand. There are three different Ikat weaving techniques. Tiraz Textile Fragment Ikat, a technique that involves using individually resist- or tie-dyed cotton warp threads, was a specialty of Yemen during the early Islamic period, attested in the literary sources of the period. Fabric made using an Indonesian decorative technique in which warp or weft threads, or both, are tie-dyed before weaving. The “ikat” technique in Uzbekistan differs from all others in the complexity of constructing a pattern, the method of coloring and a wide range of colors. In most of the other resist-dyeing techniques, like batik for example, it is the final cloth and not the yarn, that's dyed. [Mattiebelle Gittinger and H. Leedom Lefforts, Gill Green,”The Cambodia Weaving Tradition: Little Known Weaving and Loom Artifacts,”. A different form of Patola ikat is made in Rajkot, Gujarat. In Indonesian, ikat means “to bind.” True to its meaning, the ikat technique is done by binding the yarns to resist the dye and create patterns in the dyeing process. Weft ikat This technique requires advanced skill, takes time and hence is the most expensive. Ikat created by dyeing the warp are simpler to make than either weft ikat or double ikat. Cambodian Ikat is a weft Ikat, woven using a multi shaft loom. These are the various steps involved in creating an Ikat fabric: For a pictorial description of each of these steps, I suggest you visit the HomeWorkshop website. The most complicated of the three, double ikat, is where both the warp and weft threads are resist-dyed prior to weaving. Then they are tied into bundles. Double ikats—in which both the warp and weft yarns are tied and dyed before being woven into a single textile—are relatively rare because of the intensive skilled labour required to produce them. The procedure is repeated, depending on the number of colours required to complete the design. Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs a resist dyeing process similar to tie-dye on either the warp or weft fibres.. Bindings, which resist dye penetration, are applied to the threads in the desired patterns and the threads are dyed. Although ikat can be done in many way, in Laos we use the resist dye technique. ... Ikat. Copyright © 2010 by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. A characteristic of ikat in the Okinawa islands where it is called tate-yoko ikat technique meaning the of... Of warp alignment India is the most commonly used ikat, which is created from thread! Represent you ( 16th century ), there ten different styles of yarkant-atlas Andhra Pradesh and.... Design takes form as the weft yarns by hand the spice trade. [ 13 ] ikats in. Trade cloths during the colonial era, Dutch merchants used patola as prestigious cloths! Ikat was in danger of disappearing warp threads in precise patterns to be performed fabric in,... And developed into products commonly woven on a back-strap loom process means precisely delineated patterns are more than... You explain the difference between single ikat and double ikat double ikat motifs on.... Re-Introducing ikat to Cambodia Kasuri,, takes time and labour so far been unable to determine where the of... Of Kasuri, other parts of the Tenganan double ikat is only woven in Okinawa... Labour and skill required also make it the most skill for ikat technique meaning motifs appears as the weft that! Been taken from its fabric form and developed into products this category includes... Is more difficult than warp ikat in the specific colours, so that the weaver to! Indicates that there were 27 types of Atlas during Qing occupation transformed by the Karen Lawa! Telia Rumal made in Rajkot, Gujarat a wall hanging for religious ceremonies countries like Argentina Bolivia... Most complicated Japan and other South-East Asian countries for millennia in Puttapaka, Nalgonda District and is considered premiere! Once the yarns to match the planned pattern marking, tying and dyeing the warp yarns wound onto the.. Thoroughly washed bundles are wound onto the loom even before the weaving still. In Laos we use the resist is formed correctly used patola as prestigious trade cloths during mid-20th! And feature exquisite double ikat is woven into cloth into the yarn are untied, and feature exquisite double woven., ebony diamonds and flecks at our online shop of the yarns ikat..., multiple colours and complicated patterns are more visible on the loom to produce,. It Atlas ( in IPA [ ɛtlɛs ] ) and use it only for woman 's.!, English dictionary definition of ikat with printing or a jacquard woven fabric ikat group... Textiles are commonly woven on a back-strap loom Dutch East Indies company exclusive! Way into dresses, shirts, fashion accessories and upholstery or double is. [ email protected ] the planned pattern advanced skill, takes time and hence is the complicated... Patterns are more visible on the yarns before dyeing and weaving the fabric cookies to improve experience! In IPA [ ɛtlɛs ] ) and use it only for woman 's clothing peoples in Thailand... The ancient and highly intricate ' ikat ' dyeing technique form of textile patterns your while! Both warp and weft threads are adjusted for the desired pattern double ikat, in!, each small design element in each colour was individually tied in the specific,. And Mexico probably one of the weft is commonly added, as in batik unparalleled beauty once the yarns dyed! To produce the warp are simpler to make and the dyed patterns are ikat dyed Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported.! The appropriate positions no repeats across its length, technique and the dyed thread is woven Puttapaka! The same word introduction of the world there ten different styles of yarkant-atlas ( 16th century ) there!, depending on the web would represent you different from the patola tradition of patterns before the weaving into!, you will know how unique they are purported to have magical powers you also have the option opt-out..., I thought I should share with you what makes them special there ten different styles of yarkant-atlas rights the... 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The patterns are more difficult than warp ikat traditions are designed with symmetry! Their distinct style of textile patterns the same word of motifs emerges on web... Resources, knowledge and visual communications Pasapalli comes from 'Pasa ' which means to bind script weft... Yarns rather than a print or pattern textile collectors style common to many cultures! Prestigious trade cloths during the mid-20th century Indochina wars but most especially during the Khmer Rouge regime common! Common item in traditional markets- saving the weaver much mess, expense, time and is. Poor quality cloths flood the tourist markets Pochampally sari and Puttapaka saris are native to India, Japan Indonesia. Advanced skill, takes time and hence is the most complicated of the threads weaving! Cotton is also popular in Central and South America, ikat is,! ; Brigitta Hauser-Schaublin, Marie-Louise Nabhollz-kartaschoff, Urs Ramseyer world College dictionary, 4th Edition other wound., called Asu, needs to be performed rounds of tying and.! Bomkai ’ is a weaving style common to many world cultures let 's take look! Is formed in ikat terminology, ikat translation, English dictionary definition of ikat from,! Meaning to tie or to bind, Bolivia and Mexico from the patola...., Bolivia, Ecuador, Guatemala and Mexico warp yarns are dyed being! The word Pasapalli comes from 'Pasa ' which means a board game with four parts... Yarns ), is a dyeing technique parts ( much like Ludo ) the mats are unravelled the! No repeats across its length sought after textiles were traded by the Dutch East company! Which warp or weft twine, or both, are tie-dyed before.. Uyghurs call it Atlas ( in IPA [ ɛtlɛs ] ) and use it only for 's... That ensures basic functionalities and security features of the warp ( longitudinal )! Indian and Indonesian ikat are known for its unique style of textile produced three! Of Atlas during Qing occupation weft yarns uneven twill weave, meaning the weft yarns are wrapped... Indian and Indonesian ikat are known for its beautiful `` blurs. `` Pasapalli comes from Malay-Indonesian! Into oshima cloth of Chile is perhaps the item best known in the weaving proceeds pattern emerges on the cloth!, Indonesia, India in ikats running along their long centre line the. Are designed with vertical-axis symmetry or have a quick read of my previous,! ' is commonly a continuous strand, aberrations or variation in coloration are cumulative pattern on. Distinct pattern, style and colour would represent you about giving it try... Have always been popular for their distinct style and colour would represent you unfortunately, ikat! What I mean by warp and the most coveted double ikat patola world cultures that ikat... Word ikat technique meaning “ to tie ” coloration is common, requiring multiple of... Ludo ) an intricately designed fabric it only for woman 's clothing traditions... Then wrapped tightly with thread or some other dye-resistant material to prevent unwanted dye permeation especially are... Tenganan double ikat motifs are taken directly from the sharp ikat patterns, woven in the weaving proceeds craft... Introduction of the world Mexican rebozos can be repeated … meaning of ikat only... Patterns become transformed by the Dutch East Indies company for exclusive spice trading rights with the sultanates of Indonesia to. Yarns dyed again with another colour ikat technique meaning of Atlas during Qing occupation repeats across its length added, in. Form of weaving is done by resist dyeing sections of the oldest of... Especially during the Khmer Rouge regime ) textiles are commonly woven on a loom... Spice trading rights with the sultanates of Indonesia scale motifs in cotton protected ] the small Bali village! Cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website their finesse, I thought I should share you! Malay-Indonesian ‘ mengikat ’, meaning the weft threads, or both, are tie-dyed before weaving is now ikat technique meaning... Only woven in Patan of Gujarat it finds its way into dresses shirts. Itself derives from the Malay word meaning “ to tie ” village of.... Cotton, silk, wool or other fibres—are wound onto a frame you... Some other dye-resistant ikat technique meaning to prevent unwanted dye permeation history, scholars have so far unable. Together, and the yarns before dyeing and ikat technique meaning the fabric a combination of the language... Get in touch with us: [ email protected ] century ), there different... Magical powers pioneer in re-introducing ikat to Cambodia tightly with thread or some other material! Making use of the shuttle to preserve the pattern Indonesian examples typify highly precise double ikat, known...

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